Raspberry custard Brioche. Raspberry custard brioche. These three words wormed their way into my London brunch list, fast-tracking Hide Restaurant to the top of my ‘must try’ list (yes, I do have one, and it’s separated into brunch/lunch/afternoon tea/dinner, isn’t yours?) and the hype more than lived up to the flaky, buttery pastry promise.
Perhaps the most raved about restaurant interior design in years, Hide is really rather glorious.
Training under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, executive chef Ollie Dabbous was virtually unknown when he opened the doors to his eponymous restaurant Dabbous back in 2012. Scoring a Michelin star after 8 months, the waiting list was almost as big as London itself, and after a good run, he decided to close up shop and open a new project – Hide.
Set over three floors (Below, Ground and Upper) the top two floors of Hide Restaurant are flooded with natural daylight and enjoy beautiful views across leafy Green Park.
Binny and I met in Ground on a sunny Monday morning to try the much-vaunted brunch menu.
The vibe is very much relaxed, peaceful and stylish. Or as they put it “attentive but informal, simple but sophisticated” which is pretty bang-on based on our experience.
We began by perusing their well-sized coffee menu (the very best way to begin a Monday morning) ordering flat whites (and a green juice for Binny) that put a definite pep in our step – and nosing through the brunch menu (though it was pretty pointless on my behalf because is a Kiwi blogger even a blogger if she doesn’t order a permutation of eggs Benedict?)
The eggs Royale was delicious – light, unctuous, and delicious (though being a Kiwi, I could have done with a dab more Hollandaise) and the salmon was a delight. Everything is made in-house wherever possible: from charcuterie and bread to jams, juices and pickles. Binny selected their traditional eggs Benedict which was very much enjoyed.
Viennoiseries are freshly baked every morning by their team of bakers, to be enjoyed with seasonal homemade preserves – but all I had my eye on was that raspberry custard brioche – though I almost had my head turned by the french toast with blueberry compote & crème cru or the freshly baked banana bread.
We shared the delectable pastry with gusto, soaking up as much sunshine as we could before dashing off to separate meetings (oh, the joy of freelance life!)
But not before we explored the restaurant to appease our curiosity. Below has a collection of beautifully appointed private rooms and a lovely bar, perfect for perching at; whereas Above is a light-filled room that makes restaurant goers feel like they are sitting in the leafy boughs of Green Park.
Oh, and *that* staircase.
Curiously, Ground is going to be a casual all-day space (with the cocktail bar, Below), and the general manager Matthew says they’ve already spoken to Michelin about treating the two separately, with Above shooting for two stars. Less than six months after opening, Above was awarded one Michelin star, so it will be interesting to see what happens next year once Hide Restaurant has really settled in.
Would you search for a brunch hidden gem, or do you prefer to rely on easy to find restaurants? (Nb: Hide is rather easy to find in Mayfair, don’t worry…)
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